n 2010 Tudor began laying the groundwork for an ambitious project to develop its own industrial production capacity, separate from that of sister brand Rolex and – as far as possible – independent of sub- and co-contractors. A team was formed and five years later at Baselworld 2015, two models of watch were presented, equipped with a new in-house movement. That means it took five years to develop the movement and the industrial processes and tools to manufacture it before the Kenissi adventure could begin.

This new entity was created in Geneva, in 2016. Operating from various facilities in Geneva and in the Jura region, it was not until 2018 that it became visible on a large plot of land on the outskirts of Le Locle, on the main road that crosses into France, as construction work started for the Kenissi manufacture. The area is already a hotbed of movement manufacturing expertise (Zenith’s historic manufacture is perched on a hillside directly opposite). The building’s strikingly modern architecture is a clear indication of what goes on inside. Two identical rectangular buildings, connected one to the other: Kenissi’s grey-fronted manufacture and next to it the red-clad facility where Tudor watches are assembled.

Kenissi Manufacture

Kenissi develops and produces a wide range of automatic movements, based on Tudor Manufacture calibres. It also makes its expertise available to third parties.

The quality of Kenissi movements is therefore backed by Tudor, part of the Rolex group.

“Any interesting project is welcome”

First off, Tudor entered into an agreement with Breitling whereby each would supply the other with movements. For Tudor, this meant buying in a Breitling chronograph calibre which it modified with its own regulating organ, in-house adjustment, -2/+4 seconds/day accuracy and COSC certification.

Next, in 2018, Kenissi formed not just a partnership but what it describes as “an industrial alliance” with Chanel, who took a 20% stake in Kenissi’s capital and a seat on the board. Kenissi went on to supply Chanel with the movement for its new J12.

More recently, TAG Heuer turned to Kenissi for the movement that would equip its TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver. Calibre TH30 is COSC-certified, provides 70 hours of power reserve and comes with a five-year warranty.

Other brands are making overtures. Among those to have already signed on the dotted line, we can name Fortis, Norqain and Ultramarine. “There is a minimum volume,” we are told (though we are not informed what this is), “but no barriers to entry. It all depends on the approach, the project’s credibility and its mid- to long-term development. Any interesting project is welcome.”

Fully operational

Now fully operational and employing 150 people, Kenissi manufactures three movement families. They are the small MT52(KE52xx) calibres, the midsize MT54(KE54xx) calibres and the large MT56(KE56xx) calibres. Options include an integrated GMT, date, combined day and date, week number and power-reserve indication. Thanks to its partnership with Breitling, Kenissi also has a chronograph in its catalogue. Every movement is delivered assembled, tested and decorated, and tuned to COSC standard as the minimum requirement.

Nor does it end there. Tudor’s contribution to Only Watch 2023, the Prince Chronograph One, is fitted with the “Number 0” prototype for Calibre MT59XX, the new column-wheel chronograph movement that is currently in development at Tudor. Watch this space for a future 100% Kenissi chrono.

It’s still early days but already Kenissi appears to be firing on all four cylinders. While it’s giving nothing away as to production forecasts, we imagine the numbers will be more than substantial. Tudor already equips its top-selling Black Bay, Pelagos and Ranger collections with 100% in-house movements.

While prices remain under wraps, we estimate that a “standard” three-hand movement with 70 hours of power reserve sells for between CHF 450 and CHF 600, which puts it at the high end of the market for this category: well ahead of the Sellita SW200, Soprod Newton or ETA 2892, all of which have a price point under CHF 200. The fact that many Swiss brands are upgrading their collections suggests this could be a winning strategy.

TUDOR MANUFACTURE MOVEMENTS

Kenissi movements are based on Tudor movement families. Tudor offers three families of automatic movement – large (MT56), midsize (MT54) and small (MT52) – which equip the various Black Bay 31/36/39/41 models. These manufacture calibres are designed and built to be robust, reliable and precise, as demonstrated by the variable inertia balance whose traversing bridge is secured at both ends. Combined with a non-magnetic silicon balance spring, they provide COSC-certified precision which in fact exceeds the standard required by this independent body. Both the large and midsize calibres have a “weekend-proof” power reserve of up to 70 hours. The MT5201 family of small movements provides up to 50 hours of power reserve.

MT5602-U (Master Chronometer) Manufacture Calibre (large size): mechanical movement with bidirectional automatic winding by rotor. METAS-certified 70-hour power reserve. Chronometer-certified by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). METAS Master Chronometer certification. Hours, minutes, centre seconds. Stop seconds for precise time-setting. Variable inertia balance with micro-adjustment by screws. Non-magnetic silicon balance spring. Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz). 31.8mm x 6.5mm. 25 jewels.

MT5402 (COSC) Manufacture Calibre (midsize): mechanical movement with bidirectional automatic winding by rotor. Chronometer-certified by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). Power reserve up to 70 hours. Hours, minutes, centre seconds. Stop seconds for precise time-setting. Variable inertia balance with micro-adjustment by screws. Non-magnetic silicon balance spring. Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz). 26mm x 5mm. 27 jewels.

MT5201 (COSC) Manufacture Calibre (small size): mechanical movement with bidirectional automatic winding by rotor. Chronometer-certified by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). Power reserve up to 50 hours. Hours, minutes, centre seconds. Stop seconds for precise time-setting. Variable inertia balance with micro-adjustment by screws. Non-magnetic silicon balance spring. Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz). 20mm x 5mm. 26 jewels.