he Louis Vuitton Monterey revisits the Maison’s founding, horological vision and audacious spirit – reinterpreting an era-defining watch and coveted, cult piece of today.

The Maison unveils the Louis Vuitton Monterey, a limited-edition timepiece that revives the Maison’s first-ever wristwatch, which initially burst onto the horological scene in the late 1980s. Today a cult phenomenon and ultra-desirable collector favorite, the original LV I and LV II creations, crafted in a signature pebble shape, were designed by the visionary architect Gae Aulenti and channeled the Maison’s travel spirit. La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton now elevates the signature design codes of this icon with the finest savoir-faire. The Louis Vuitton Monterey comes in yellow gold paired with a stunning white Grand Feu enamel dial that recalls the original graphic footprint, also replacing the quartz caliber from the original heritage pieces with an in-house automatic movement. The watch is limited to 188 pieces.

According to Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, “Reinterpreting a creation means respecting its design and spirit. We maintain the same graphic codes, but strive for a more modern and elevated feel.“

Back in 1988, Louis Vuitton launched its first-ever wristwatches, the LV I and LV II. Continuing its tradition of collaborating with the world’s most visionary creatives, Louis Vuitton partners with the Italian architect and designer Gae Aulenti, who has just finished her ground-breaking transformation of a Parisian train station into the Musée d’Orsay. The maker of seminal objects in the 1960s, Aulenti worked with Louis Vuitton to create the avant-garde LV I and LV II wristwatches. Embracing the Maison’s spirit of travel with a railway track and date displays, GMT and world time function – the 40mm LV I is crafted in a revolutionary, lug-free pebble shape, in either white or yellow gold. Meanwhile, a crown is set distinctly at 12 o’clock, as a nod to pocket watches. The LV II is a smaller, 37mm version produced in innovative scratch-resistant ceramic in either black or green, displaying the date and time with an added alarm function.

Collectors are drawn to the striking designs, a fascination that is further underscored by the nickname the watch is affectionately given: the Monterey. The name takes after the American pronunciation of montre (French for wristwatch), as the LV I and LV II were originally referred to as Montre 1 and Montre 2.

Nearly four decades later, the original 1988 LV I and LV II pieces are finding a new audience. Monterey watches are spotted on the wrists of today’s most influential tastemakers and trendsetters, while at the Louis Vuitton’s Womenswear Fall-Winter 2025 runway show in Paris, Artistic Director of Women’s collections, Nicolas Ghesquière accents his ready-to-wear pieces with LV II watches from 1988.

Revisiting the bold aesthetic and innovative spirit of the Maison’s debut timepiece, the Louis Vuitton Monterey is a purist yet audacious reinterpretation of an icon. The design’s founding codes and features have now been elevated via the in-house savoir-faire and expertise of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Featuring a 39mm, yellow gold, pebble-shape case that is paired with a glossy Grand Feu enamel dial, the watch is powered by an in-house automatic movement that replaces the original quartz caliber. The new minimalist, time-only watch retains the graphic nature of the heritage piece in the red and blue accents of its twin hour and minute scales. As a tribute to the 1988 debut, the Louis Vuitton Monterey is limited to 188 pieces.

Celebrating an ancestral watchmaking art, Grand Feu enameling was a clear choice for the new dial, thanks to its long lasting, quality finish and exceptional luster. Not only does the technique deliver an exceptional glossy and brilliant finish, there is also a unique warmth and tone that pairs especially well with the graphic nature of the minimalist dial. Grand Feu enameling is also beloved for its optimal color stability and high resistance to fading. All these qualities ultimately present a dial that remains vibrant for generations, while echoing the intricate know-how, time and expertise behind its creation.

Creating a Grand Feu enamel dial is an orchestrated and painstaking process of many stages which requires around 20 hours of work of applying multiple layers of vitreous enamel to metal. This is further interspersed with careful firings at high temperatures ranging between 800-900°C, with each firing presenting the risk of breakage and starting over from scratch.

The color white is also one of the most challenging hues to perfect. The process begins with color preparation, where enamel powder is inspected under a microscope for impurities, to ensure a delicate and uniform texture. Using a fine brush, the enamel is then hand-applied to a white gold dial base that’s also been pre-prepped with fiberglass. Achieving the desired color and tone comes down to meticulous layering: first a thin base layer followed by firing, then four more layers of build up – again with firings in-between – to achieve the desired depth and opacity. Expert timing is crucial to avoid over- or underfiring and ensuring a smooth and even tone.

The finishing process comes next, and the dial is first lapped with paperglass to create a perfectly flat surface, preparing the white dial for enamel vitrification. Here it is slowly fired at 720°C, a step that’s repeated 10 times to achieve not only a solid and translucent layer, but also the special glossy and brilliant finish that emanates a kind of opaline effect, but with a unique richness and depth that can only be created through hand-applied enameling craft.

The stamping process then begins with mixing the essence of ground enamel powder – in blue, red or black ¬– to create a smooth, paste-like texture that will be ideal for precise enamel stamping. A two-hour process of crafting the dial’s signature begins, where precise machine adjustments are employed for each color, as the intricate pattern and hue, desired depth and volume, are built up. A total of eight stamping applications for each of the three colors are needed: four at 460°C, followed by another four at 600°C. The dial’s colors are further echoed in the matching white gold hands of the watch – and which again recall the codes of the original piece. Edgy and graphic, syringe-style hands feature in red lacquer paired with a blued steel seconds hand. The dual signatures of “Fab. an Suisse“ and “Louis Vuitton Paris“ round out the face.

A sense of heritage also permeates every element of the Louis Vuitton Monterey case. Fully crafted and manually polished in-house at La Fabrique des Boîtiers Louis Vuitton, the shape stays true to the original creation. A yellow gold case is perfectly rounded into a beautifully reflective 39mm case, topped with a pocket watch-inspired crown at 12 o’clock. Expert attention to detail has been bestowed on the winding crown, which has been widened and notched with a special Clous de Paris texture. Sculpted by hand-operated, sophisticated machining, the crown exudes a unique emotive quality, not to mention tactility and comfort.

Finally, capturing Gae Aulenti’s avant-garde vision, her ingenious caseback construction and lug-less form have also been reinterpreted. Recalling the 1988 model, the watch features an identical quick release strap system, as an engraved “1 of 188“ is etched on the caseback. Discreetly hidden below the leather strap, this detail is known only to the wearer.

The proportions of the case are intimately linked to the new watch’s underlying LFTMA01.02 automatic movement, set behind a closed caseback. At La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, every detail of the caliber reflects meticulous craftsmanship, even those that remain unseen. The same meticulous level of precision and craftsmanship of the watch’s exterior is celebrated within, through features like of a circular- grained main plate, sandblasted bridges and micro-sandblasted edges. It also features the Maison’s signature design codes like an 18K rose gold rotor that’s been trimmed with V-notches, recalling the LV Monogram, while hidden beneath the barrel lies the poinçon LFT, a discreet seal of excellence from La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Finally, colorless sapphires exude a contemporary look to the caliber, which now benefits from 28,800 vibrations per hour and a 45-hour power reserve to suit today’s lifestyles.

“This watch represents a symbiosis between the old and present, respecting the design and spirit of the original while reinterpreting it for today.“ says Matthieu Hegi. “We retained the polished ’pebble’ spirit, the unique leather attachment, and the iconic crown at twelve o’clock, all hallmarks of the 1988 LV I and LV II. This white enamel, with its enamel decals, is not only a tribute to enduring craftsmanship but also offers a brilliance, tone and warmth that will last over time.“

By honoring the past while embracing modernity, the Maison has created a timepiece that is both timeless and forward-looking, a testament to enduring craftsmanship – and a legacy of savoir-faire reimagined for today.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Louis Vuitton Monterey W0YG11

• Case • Material: 18K yellow gold • Diameter: 39mm • Thickness: 12,2mm • Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating • Closed case-back, engraved ‘1 of 188’ • Water resistance: 50m

• Dial: Grand Feu enamel dial on 18K white gold plate • 18K white gold hours and minutes hands with red lacquer coating, blued steel seconds hand

• Movement: Mechanical self-winding movement, calibre LFT MA01.02 • Diameter: 23 mm • Thickness: 5.4 mm • Functions: hours, minutes, seconds • Oscillating weight: 18K pink gold • Power reserve: 45 hours • Number of jewels: 26 • Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour - 4Hz

• Bracelet: Black calf leather strap • 18K yellow gold pin buckle