ifty years ago, Girard-Perregaux unveiled the Laureato, a watch that would mark one of the major chapters in the history of contemporary watchmaking. Entirely designed, developed and produced in-house, it entered the world of elegant sports watches with integrated bracelets and a chronometer-certified manufacture quartz movement. In this anniversary year, the brand is celebrating its half-century with a limited edition of 200: the Laureato FIFTY. With features that make it the quintessential Laureato, it pays vibrant tribute to the past while projecting Girard-Perregaux into the future.

Since 1791, Girard-Perregaux has forged its identity around a dual commitment: to create watches with a distinctive design and the movements that power them. In a watchmaking landscape built on the tradition of établissage and its network of subcontractors, the brand distinguished itself early on by a very high level of integration and the adoption of the manufacture model from the start of the industrial revolution in the late 18th century. It was one of the first watchmaking companies to decide to bring all stages of production in- house. In La Chaux-de-Fonds, in the heart of the Neuchâtel mountains, the company crafts not only creations bearing its name, but also the movements it supplies to prestigious customers, with the extreme care typical of Haute Horlogerie.

The history of the Laureato continues this tradition of excellence. In 1966, Girard-Perregaux opened a Research and Development department to explore the potential of quartz. Five years later, what would soon become its Design Office unveiled the calibre GP350: it has a frequency of 32,768 Hz, which has since become the universal standard in the watchmaking industry. Girard-Perregaux was far ahead of the quartz revolution. In 1977, two years after the launch of the Laureato, 83% of the quartz-related patents registered with COSC came from the company. The first Laureato was born of this expertise.

The Laureato immediately stood out for its unique visual identity: an octagonal bezel set on a circular base, a tonneau-shaped case, an integrated bracelet... Designed by GP’s in-house designers, its fluid, architectural silhouette transgresses the codes of traditional watchmaking without breaking them. In contrast to its contemporaries, such as Gérald Genta’s Royal Oak (1972), which is all angles and screws, or the Nautilus (1976), with its roundness inspired by a porthole but also by the traditional “cushion” shape, it favours precision, balance and elegance. From 1975, it embodied a new, more refined and subtle luxury. It was not a response to trends – it was a trendsetter.

This philosophy is now reflected in the Laureato FIFTY. Directly inspired by the original model, this new creation embodies both fidelity to the historic design and the integration of the most advanced technologies.

Housed in a new case measuring 39 mm in diameter and 9.8 mm thick, the Laureato FIFTY, true to its origins, draws on the nobility of the material: the combination of steel and 3N yellow gold. This combination is reminiscent of the first bicolour model from 1975, but with a contemporary edge. The tonneau case has been reworked: sharper angles, more pronounced bevels, even smoother integration of the bracelet. The iconic octagonal bezel alternates between satin and polished finishes, creating a subtle and sophisticated play of light. The sapphire crystals, flat on both the dial and case-back sides, contribute to the visual finesse of the whole. An unusual detail on a piece of this type: it is water-resistant to 150 metres.

The deep sunray grey dial features a Clous de Paris pattern enhanced by indexes and hands which match the 3N gold of the watch. The central seconds hand is balanced by a counterweight in the shape of a double arrow, the GP emblem, and an aperture at 3 o’clock displays the date on a disc whose colour matches that of the dial – a level of finishing and detail that testifies to absolute respect for the codes of Haute Horlogerie.

The steel and yellow gold bracelet is in keeping with the original design. Its complexity is expressed in a tapered design whose steel ‘H’ links become progressively thinner towards the clasp. These links, which are slightly shorter on this new model, allow the bracelet to fit more closely to the curve of the wrist. They also feature a half-link adjustment for optimal comfort. The central links, in yellow gold, are slightly more domed than those in steel, playing on volumes and light. The triple folding clasp features the GP logo, also engraved on the inner blades. The octagonal push-pieces on the clasp echo the bezel and reinforce the coherence of the design. The clasp also incorporates an innovative fine adjustment system that enables the bracelet to be precisely adjusted by 4 mm, which is particularly useful in hot weather – a functional, refined and discreet detail.

The birth of a new calibre is always an event, even for such a prolific manufacturer as Girard-Perregaux. Through its see-through case-back, the Laureato Fifty reveals the GP4800. The fruit of several years’ development, this new automatic movement combines finesse, performance and reliability thanks to its silicon escapement and variable inertia balance. Its design called on the full expertise of the Manufacture’s watchmakers, with particular attention paid to longevity and energy efficiency. No fewer than 10 different finishes reveal its full beauty. But beyond its aesthetic and technical characteristics, the GP4800 is also a historic milestone, since it is the first “simple” movement – hours/ minutes/seconds/date – whose construction is inspired by what is now the Girard-Perregaux emblem: the Three Bridges. A contemporary expression of GP savoir-faire, nurtured by more than two centuries of exacting standards and inventiveness, the finest architecture in mechanical watchmaking is finally being extended beyond the tourbillon...