hen Formex introduced the Essence Ceramica Skeleton in March 2026, it marked a turning point: the brand’s first full-ceramic case and bracelet, the world’s first micro-adjustable ceramic clasp, and a bold architectural dial that showcased the engineering beneath. In September, the collection expanded with four signature full dials—bringing the recognizable Essence identity to ceramic and debuting Formex’s new movement partnership with Soprod. Now, the platform evolves again with its first specialty dial, a category that helped define Formex’s reputation in the steel Essence line, where meteorite dials are electroplated with 18k rose gold, sterling silver, or plated with galvanic rhodium, became collector favorites.

For the all-black Ceramica, Formex pursued a different challenge: darkening the meteorite without diminishing its crystalline Widmanstätten pattern or its natural metallic brilliance. The result is the Dark Matter dial—achieved through a dark-nickel electroplating process developed through extensive prototyping at Cadranor, the family’s own dial manufacture in the Swiss Jura mountains. It represents a new chapter for the Essence Ceramica, where celestial material meets modern ceramic architecture in its most enigmatic form.

Some four ice ages ago, the Muonionalusta iron meteorite entered Earth’s atmosphere and fragmented over a remote region north of the Arctic Circle—an area frozen solid for much of the year and cloaked in months of 24-hour darkness. From this extraterrestrial alloy, Formex cuts each Dark Matter dial.

After precise slicing and etching, the meteorite undergoes a dark-nickel electroplating treatment that blackens the material while sharpening its naturally occurring Widmanstätten pattern—geometric, interlocking crystalline structures formed only when an iron-nickel core cools undisturbed in space over millions of years. The result is not a uniform black coating, but a surface that shifts from deep graphite to bright metallic flashes with every change of light and angle. No two Dark Matter dials will ever look alike; nature does not repeat herself.

Unlike most meteorite or stone dials that are thin slices glued onto brass plates, the Dark Matter is engineered as a single solid component. This allows Formex to solder the dial feet directly into the meteorite, enabling a fully precision-milled, beveled 6-o’clock date window—a technical feat in dial manufacturing. Set against the jet-black, ultra-scratch-resistant ceramic case, the dial appears almost gravitational, drawing the eye inward with its shifting crystalline fields. Gun-metal applied indices and hands hover above the surface, their brushed facets and polished bevels catching the light like orbiting fragments. BGW9 Super-LumiNova® provides clarity after dark, while a tone-on-tone date disc keeps the visual field uninterrupted. Even “Swiss Made” moves discreetly to the rehaut, allowing the cosmos to take center stage.

“In ceramic, every surface tells the truth,” says Raphael Granito, CEO of Formex. “There’s no forgiveness in the material—every angle, every edge, every transition is exposed and has to be perfect. Introducing meteorite into that environment means pairing one of the most demanding engineered materials with one of the most unpredictable natural ones. The Dark Matter is where those two worlds meet. By darkening the meteorite, the goal was to let it integrate seamlessly into the ceramic architecture, yet still come alive when light hits the dial—fully revealing the crystalline structure that makes each piece unique.”

The Dark Matter is not merely a dial; it’s a meeting point between interstellar history and contemporary engineering. A reminder that even in a disciplined, technical watch like the Essence Ceramica, there is room for something that feels quietly otherworldly.

The launch of the Essence Ceramica COSC also introduced a new movement partner: Soprod. Established in 1966 in Switzerland’s Jura region, Soprod joins Sellita as a second source of proven Swiss Made calibers.

Project Newton P092 – In 2023, work began on a bespoke Soprod caliber developed to Formex specifications: the Newton P092. Its architecture was selected for the symmetry of its 6–12 o’clock layout, placing the balance at 6 o’clock beneath a transverse bridge that enhances resistance to shocks and vibrations—an approach that echoes Formex’s own patented Case Suspension System. Incabloc’s double-cone shock absorber, considered a benchmark in the category, provides additional protection.

Formex Finishing – The Newton P092’s decorations and finishing were designed in-house to convey a modern aesthetic. Bridges feature a laser-textured grainé surface with vertically brushed edges, enhanced by a galvanic black-gold treatment. Traditional thermally blued screws add contrast, while the skeletonized rotor carries an openworked Formex emblem and a bold sunburst finish to catch the light through the sapphire caseback.

Tested, Proven, Certified – Reliability is ensured through independent Chronofiable® testing at Laboratoire Dubois in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where movements are subjected to accelerated ageing, extreme temperature and humidity variations, and 20,000 shocks of varying intensity. Every movement then undergoes the rigorous process for certification by the COSC, the Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. Over 15 days, calibers are tested in five positions and three temperatures according to ISO 3159. Only those maintaining an average daily rate between −4 and +6 seconds are awarded the title of “Chronometer.” Each Essence Ceramica is delivered with its COSC certificate, and every movement carries an individually engraved chronometer number. “Having both Soprod and Sellita close by is a real strength for us,” says Raphael Granito, CEO of Formex. “Soprod in the Jura is just half an hour from Cadranor, our sister company for dials, and less than 20 minutes from our headquarters in Biel/Bienne, while Sellita is only a short drive further. And when the subject turns to cases and bracelets, Dexel is right next door. This kind of proximity means we can work hand in hand with our partners, ensuring agility, accountability, and a seamless flow from design to production. It reinforces the resilience of our supply chain and keeps the core of Swiss watchmaking expertise right at our doorstep. And with the Newton P092, we see the result of that ecosystem—a calibre that feels like a pure expression of Formex. It’s the same pride a racing team feels when developing its own engine to take onto the track: the confidence that what drives the watch carries our DNA.”

Ceramic has long been at the core of high-performance engineering and holds a special place in motorsport for its ability to withstand punishing conditions while remaining lightweight, durable, and thermally stable. For Formex, whose DNA is steeped in purpose, precision, and performance, the parallels are natural.

With the Essence Ceramica COSC, this expertise finds its fullest expression. Achieving crisp bevels, vertical brushing, and diamond-polished contours in zirconium oxide ceramic on the case and bracelet requires advanced diamond tooling, multiple finishing stages, and decades of know-how. Here, Formex benefits from its family ties with Dexel, a reference in cases, bracelets, and high-tech materials, whose 40+ years of experience enable finishes in ceramic that most brands would not attempt.

More than three years of development went into optimizing every element of the Essence Ceramica. Unlike most ceramic watches that rely on uniform matte or glossy surfaces, Formex juxtaposes textures to create depth and dynamism. This dialogue mirrors the brand’s best-selling stainless-steel models while giving ceramic a voice of its own.

At the core is zirconium oxide: abundant, durable, and naturally suited to watchmaking. It combines luxury aesthetics with more than practical advantages: ● Scratch-proof: Seven times harder than steel (1200 Vickers vs 155 HV for steel, 145 HV for titanium). ● Fade-resistant: Completely impervious to UV exposure, ceramic retains its color and finish indefinitely. ● Hypoallergenic & non-porous: Safe for sensitive skin, with no risk of irritation. ● Amagnetic: Shields the movement from magnetic interference. ● Thermally adaptive: Doesn’t trap heat or cold like metal, ensuring comfort in all conditions.

Beyond its technical merits, ceramic reveals itself most powerfully in motion. The interplay of brushed surfaces and diamond-polished edges turns the case and bracelet into shifting planes of contrast—dark to bright, matte to gleam—every angle releasing a new impression. A simple turn of the wrist sets off a choreography of reflections: crisp, dynamic, and unmistakably modern. It’s a visual richness that heightens presence without excess, projecting strength with refinement.

Just as the Essence Ceramica COSC makes no concessions in tackling one of watchmaking’s most demanding materials, it also makes none in terms of the innovations that define Formex. Every hallmark of the brand’s engineering philosophy is built in:

Case Suspension System – A Formex signature since its patent in 2000, the system protects the movement by absorbing shocks while ensuring a naturally snug fit that adapts dynamically to the wrist. For the ceramic case, it was re-engineered to preserve strength and ergonomics without compromising the sleek design.

Screw-Down Crown – Engineering a functional screw-down crown into a zirconium oxide ceramic case is no small feat. Achieving the tolerances required for water resistance in such a brittle material demanded a dedicated re-engineering process—another example of Formex refusing to compromise on functionality.

Micro-Adjustable Ceramic Clasp – A world first introduced with the Skeleton COSC earlier this year, seamlessly integrated into the ceramic bracelet. Its patented mechanism allows fine-tuning over 5 mm in increments of 1.5mm in both directions – on the wrist and on the fly with the clasp fully closed.

Interchangeable Strap Concept – Developed in collaboration with sister company Dexel, the quick-release system makes it possible to switch from the ceramic bracelet to a rubber, nylon or leather strap in seconds, tool-free. These come with Formex’s patented carbon fiber deployant clasp with a gradual fine-adjustment system up to 7 mm on the fly—no need to open the clasp.

In short: uncompromising in material, uncompromising in features – the Essence Ceramica COSC delivers the complete Formex experience.

“With the Essence Ceramica COSC, we’ve taken ceramic further than most thought possible – not just for the case and bracelet, but for the dial itself. That achievement is the result of a unique constellation: Dexel’s decades of mastery in ceramic engineering and Cadranor’s expertise in dialmaking, combined with our own drive to innovate without concessions. For us, pushing boundaries is never about making things more complicated; it’s about creating watches that embody advanced engineering, uncompromising quality, and real-world accessibility. That is what Formex stands for.” – Raphaël Granito, CEO of Formex

The Essence Ceramica COSC “Dark Matter” is limited to a yearly production of 100 pieces and priced at CHF 4,150.00 on the full ceramic bracelet. Additional leather, rubber, and nylon straps are available separately. Taxes & duties are included for shipping addresses in the USA, UK, Australia/New Zealand, Switzerland, and the European Union. The Essence Ceramica COSC “Dark Matter” will be available for pre-order December 9th at 7AM UTC, 2025, with first-batch deliveries expected to commence mid January 2026.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Formex Essence Ceramica “Dark Matter” COSC Automatic 41mm

SKU 0336.4.6091.410

Dimensions

• 41 mm diameter, 11.2mm height, 22mm lug width, 46.2 mm lug-to-lug

Weight

• 56g grams case only. 137g grams on ceramic bracelet

Water Resistance

• Waterproof to 100 meters / 330 feet

Case

• Scratch-resistant Zirconium Oxide Ceramic (Zr2), vertically brushed surfaces and diamond-polished bevels. Integrated and patented Case Suspension System with a titanium grade 2 container.

Glass

• Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with five layers of anti-reflective coating on the inside

Case back

• Zirconium Oxide Ceramic (Zr2) with sapphire crystal display window

Dial

• Solid Muonionalusta meteorite, finished with a dark-nickel treatment. Each dial’s crystalline structure is naturally unique, formed over millions of years—no two are alike. Gun-metal finished Indices with brushed surfaces and mirror-polished edges, filled with BGW9 Super-LumiNova®

Hands

• Gun-metal finished with vertical brush and diamond-cut polished bevels filled with Super-LumiNova® BGW9.

Movement

• Self-winding Swiss Made Soprod Newton P092, 28’800 vph (4 Hz); 23 jewels; 44 hours of power reserve. Chronofiable®-tested and officially certified by the COSC.
• Functions: Central hours, minutes, and seconds; date at 6 o’clock. Complications: Date, hacking seconds, quick date correction. Skeletonized rotor.

Bracelet/Strap

• Clasps Zirconium Oxide Ceramic (Zr2) solid-link bracelet with vertical brush finish and diamond-polished bevels. Taper from 22mm to 20mm. Removable pin & tube links, tool provided. Ceramic clasp with the world’s first and patented micro-adjustment system that allows adjusting the bracelet length over 5 mm in 4 gradual increments of 1.25mm for unparalleled fit customization – within seconds, without the need for a tool. The fit is adjustable on the fly without the need to open the clasp or remove the watch from the wrist.

Rubber, Nylon and Italian leather straps are available to purchase as add-ons. Those are mounted on Formex’s patented carbon fiber composite clasp with a gradual 7mm on-the-fly micro-adjustment system.

All straps and the ceramic bracelet can be changed using a quick-release system, which does not require the use of tools.

Price CHF 4,150.00 USD 4,920.00 EUR 4,590.00 GBP 3,850.00 CAD 6,690.00 AUD 7,100.00 JPY 705,500.00

International shipping, 30-day free returns, and 3-year international warranty included. All taxes, tariffs & duties included for shipping addresses within Switzerland, USA, the European Union, UK, Australia/NZ and Japan.

Availability

• Available for pre-order starting December 9th, 2025 at 7am UTC. Shipments are expected to commence mid January 2026.

Available on the Formex Online Boutique and at select local partners.